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OLD FASHIONED SCENTS
From old medical guides, Pharmacopeias and dispensatories, old fashioned recipes of all sorts can be found for common ailments and cosmetics. Many of the recipes are intimidating in that they may use units of measure that we are not familiar with and many also use ingredients, intended for ingestion, that are now known to be toxic or are restricted.
However, there is a great deal to be learned by studying the old recipes and experimenting with some of them, including old cosmetic and pefume recipes. Unlike most fragrances of our time, the old formulas are made with natural essential oils and other basic ingredients. Following is a collection of old recipes for scented products.
Note: Fluid drachm = 1/8 fluid ounce or 3.552 milliliters.
MAKING PERFUME OR COLOGNE OVERVIEW
The procedure for making perfume or cologne is very simple; all of the artistry and creativity lies in first creating the scent. this can be based on a single scent or it can be a complex symphony with hundreds of different aroma components.
The difference between perfume and cologne is merely the concentration. the descending levels of concentration are: perfume (30%); eau de perfume (15%); eau de toilette (8%); cologne (5%); and cologne splash (3%). The remainder is alcohol and water, or a carrier oil (for oil-based perfume). The chart below gives an [approximate] breakdown of the amounts of scent, alcohol, and water for each scent level.
(By Percentage)
(% of Total)
(% of Remainder)
(% of Remainder)
(Reading from the above example for perfume, your essential/fragrance oils would constitute 30% of the total quantity. of the remaining 70%, 95% would be alcohol and 5% would be water.)
(By Ratio)
(% of Total)
(% of Remainder)
(% of Remainder)
(If you do not want to do the math, this table shows the ratio of the three components. Reading again from the above example for perfume, you would simply combine 8 parts essential/fragrance oils with 19 parts alcohol and 1 part water.)
A WORD ABOUT ALCOHOL
The odorless alcohol used in perfumery is ethanol. this is the same as grain alcohol, the same type that is found in alcoholic beverages, and is therefore, strickly regulated and impossible to obtain. SD (special denatured) alcohol has additives, which are odorless but render the alcohol undrinkable. But, this is still very difficult to get ...impossible in some places. But there "are" sources, if you know where to look.
A substitute for SD alcohol is an [almost] pure grain alcohol product called "everclear" (which is 95% alcohol). Because of the stringent restriction placed on grain alcohol, there are certain states (including California, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Ohio, Oregon, Pennsylvania, and Washington) that restrict the sale [and import] of everclear (and other brands of this type of product). However, it can be purchased in Arizona, Colorado, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Louisiana, Mississippi, Nevada, New Jersey, New York, North Carolina, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Texas, Virginia, Washington DC, Wisconsin, and Wyoming. Another alternative to SD alcohol is 100 proof vodka (50% ethyl alcohol) which is not ideal, but can be used if no other alternatives are available. It may be "illegal" to sell any perfume/cologne made with vodka or everclear.
Affordable "perfumers' alcohol" has started showing up on essential oil sites... as a probable result of popular demand. This is usually formula "40B", which is the denatured ethanol with added bitrex - (a substance which is extremely bitter and unpleasant to the taste and is used to discourage the ingestion of the ethanol). To this 40B, other compounds are added to make the product easier for the non-professional to use. This is usually a proprietary blend so you cannot get the exact formula, but the supplier will disclose the ingredients, which, in addition to the alcohol, may include dipropylene glycol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, isopropyl myristate, and/or isopropyl alcohol. Two sources for these perfumers' blends are My Sweet Victoria (Professional Perfume Diluent) and Snowdrift Farms (SnowDrift Farms Specially Denatured Alcohol Blends).
Please note that there are authorities who state: "do not use any variation of isopropyl alcohol, nor any so-called 'perfumery blend' that might contain it; the rapidity of the drying rate is far too high and it can carry a scent that may interfere with your blend. Isopropyl myristate is known for causing skin-clogging and blackheads and it is a dermal, eye, and respiratory irritant."
A new source for perfume alcohol is Save-On-Scents, a business which specializes in [a vast array of] fragrance oils. they now offer formula 39C SDA: 190 proof ethanol, denatured with diethyl phthalate*, with no additional ingredients. because this is sold unadulterated, it "is" subject to BATF regulations, (i.e. if this is being used in a product that is to be sold, you will have to acquire the necessary permit and pay the appropriate taxes). However, if this is for personal use, it is a source for unadulterated SDA in states where everclear (and products like it) are not available.
* In listing this as a source for SD alcohol, there is need to point out that there is a considerabe amount of concern over the safety of "phthalates" in cosmetics. However, it is needed to be pointed out that "diethyl" phthalate (used in formula 39C) has been widely accepted as safe, and formula 39C is widely used in the commercial perfume industry. This article from Proctor & Gamble may shed some light on this topic.
USING SPECIAL DENATURED ALCOHOL (OR EVERCLEAR)
Prepare scent by combining desired oils.
Add oil and alcohol, and then, [spring or distilled] water in the proportions from the chart above.
Mix by stirring slowly but long enough to ensure complete dispersal.
Let mixture mature for 48 hours (to 6 weeks)... The longer, the stronger.
Adjust strength (if desired) by adding more water and mixing well.
USING 100-PROOF VODKA (50% alcohol)
Prepare scent by combining desired oils.
Add oil to vodka in proportions from chart above.*
Mix by stirring slowly but long enough to ensure complete dispersal.
Let mixture mature for 48 hours (to 6 weeks)... The longer, the stronger; stirring slowly but completely every 24 hours to remix since some oil will separate and float to the top.
Adjust strength (if desired) by adding more [spring] water and mixing well.
Because of the high water content that results with using this method, there will always be some oil that floats to the top. It will, therefore, be necessary to shake the mixture before each use.
* Remember that when using vodka, for all intents and purposes, the non-alcohol part of the vodka serves as "water" so your water/alcohol ratio will always be at least 50% : 50%.
OLD FASTHIONED SCENT RECIPES
LAVENDER TOILET WATER
2 drachms Lavender Essential Oil
1 drachms Bergamot Essential Oil
4 drachms Vanilla Essential Oil
4 drachms Angelica Essential Oil
10 ounces Cologne Spirits
4 ounces Rosewater (Rose Hydrosol)
FLORIDA TOILET WATER
1/4 ounce Lavender Essential Oil
1/4 ounce Bergamot Essential Oil
1/4 ounce Lemon Essential Oil
1/2 drachm Sweet Orange Essential Oil
15 drops Cloves Essential Oil
1/2 drachm Cassia (Cinnamon) Essential Oil
3 pints Cologne Spirits
1 pint Rosewater (Rose Hydrosol)
Rinse and filter through magnesia.
Home-made toilet water: Use any essence desired; oil of lavender or rose, for instance. About twenty-five drops will perfume five pints of water. Into each one or two half-gallon jars put a funnel lined with filter paper, with a bunch of cotton at the bottom. On top of this cotton put some finely powdered magnesia, over which has been poured the perfume essence. It should be divided and half the quantity put into each jar. Pour into each jar some rainwater, or ordinary boiled water. This will filter through the cotton, paper, and magnesia, and make a soft toilet water with a delightful fragrance.
Jasmine toilet water: Home-made jasmine water is very refreshing. To make a gallon, take a quart of spirits of cologne and put it into a gallon jug; add half an ounce of the oil of jasmine. Let it stand two weeks. Fill with the best alcohol, and let it stand two weeks or more.
Lavender water: A delightful toilet water is made of white wine vinegar and lavender flowers. Steep handfuls of the lavender in the vinegar. Keep the jar for three days in a warm place on the back of the stove, after which strain and bottle.
BALM OF A THOUSAND FLOWERS
1 pint Deodorized Alcohol
Bar Soap, nice and white
Shave the soap when putting it in, let stand in a warm place until dissolved, and then add the following.
1 drachm Citronella Essential Oil
1/2 drachm Neroli Essential Oil
1/2 drachm Rosemary Essential Oil
BAY RUM MIXTURE #1
1/2 ounce Bay Essential Oil
1/2 ounce Clove Essential Oil
1 ounce Red Thyme Essential Oil
1 ounce Allspice Essential Oil
Mix all together. To make Bay Rum, add 1/4 ounce of this mixture to 2 pints of alcohol. Shake thoroughly and add 2 pints of water and 1 ounce of Carbonate of Magnesia, finely pulverized. Place it in a filter and filter Bay Rum through it.
BAY RUM MIXTURE #2
1 ounce Bay Essential Oil
1 drachm Clove Essential Oil
1 drachm Sweet Orange Essential Oil
30 drops Neroli Essential Oil
30 drops Allspice Essential Oil
3 drops Cardamon Essential Oil
Prepare as above.
BAY RUM #3
2 drams Bay Essential Oil
20 drops Pimento Essential Oil
1/2 ounce Carbonate of magnesium
2 pints Alcohol
2 pints Water
Tincture of grass, sufficient to color.
Mix them shake and filter.
BAY RUM #4
1 gallon Rum
1 ounce Bay Essential Oil
1/2 ounce Acetic Acid
8 ounces Alcohol
Caramel, sufficient.
Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, and add to the rum; color with caramel and filter.
BAY RUM #5
8 ounces Alcohol
40 drops Bay Essential Oil
1 grain Mace Essential Oil
20 drops Orange Essential Oil
1 ounce Jamaica rum
Water enough to make 16 ounces.
Digest two or three weeks, and filter through magnesia.
BAY RUM #6
1 ounce Bay Essential Oil
1 pint Jamaica Rum
4 pints Strong Alcohol
3 pints Water
Mix the rum, alcohol and water, then add the oil, mix, and filter.
BAY RUM #7
6 drams Bay Essential Oil
1 dram Pimento Essential Oil
1 ounce Ether, Acetic
4 drams Powdered castile soap
12 pints Alcohol
10 pints Water
Mix. Allow to stand seven days; then filter.
BAY RUM #8
4 drams Bay Essential Oil
8 ounces Jamaica Rum
4.5 pints Water
3 pints Stronger Alcohol
Filter through magnesia and charcoal, if necessary.
BAY RUM #9
16 ounces Jamaica Rum
64 ounces Alcohol
48 ounces Water
Mix and add:
1 ounce Bay Essential Oil
BAY RUM #10 (AFTER SHAVE)
3 pints Bay Rum
1/2 pint Glycerine
1/2 ounce Violet Extract (Note: Not sure is this is the extract recommended.)
1/2 pint Rose Water
Mix and filter, if necessary.
BARBERS BAY RUM (BAY RUM #11)
6 drams Bay Essential Oil
1 dram Pimento Oil
1 dram Orange Peel Essential Oil
1/2 ounce Orange Peel Tincture
4 drams White Castile Soap
12 pints Cologne Spirit (Alcohol)
9 pints Water
Dissolve the castile soap in a pint of the water by the aid of heat; dissolve the oils in the cologne of spirit, gradually add the solution of soap, tincture of orange and water, let stand and filter.
BAY RUM #12 (DOMESTIC)
5 ounces Bay Essential Oil
6.25 gallons Alcohol
3.75 gallons Water
5 ounces Bay Leaves
Macerate 14 days; filter.
BAY RUM ESSENCE #13
1 ounce Bay Essential Oil
1 dram Pimento Oil
1 dram Clove Essential Oil
2 ounces Acetic Ether
With alcohol 60 per cent, the above is sufficient to make 6 gallons of bay rum.
BAY RUM ESSENCE #14
300 parts Bay Leaf Tincture
10 parts Bay Essential Oil
50 parts Borax 50 parts Ammonium Carbonate
1500 parts Rose Water, q.s. ad
BAY RUM HAIR TONIC #15
5 pints Bay Rum
16 ounces Glycerine
8 ounces Catharidea Tincture
8 ounces Soap Bark Tincture
8 ounces Rose Water
8 ounces Orange Flower Water
Mix, and filter if necessary.
BAY RUM #16 (THOMPSON'S)
1 ounce Bay Essential Oil (Distilled Myrcia Acris)
1 ounce Ether Acetic
1/2 ounce Pimento Oil
1.5 gallons Alcohol
1/5 gallons Water
Add 1 ounce pure Borax; this gives the desired color. First dissolve it in 1/2 gallon of the water, then filter.
BAY RUM #17 (ST. THOMAS)
1/2 ounce Bay Essential Oil
1 ounce Carbonate of Magnesium
1 pint New England Rum
2 pints Alcohol
2 pints Water
Tincture of Grass, sufficient to color.
Rub the oil with the carbonate of magnesium; then gradually add the water, alcohol and New England rum. Filter through paper, and add sufficient tincture of grass to give it a light green tint.
KINGS COLOGNE #1
1/4 ounce (by weight) Purified Benzoin
1/4 ounce (by weight) Rosemary Essential Oil
1/2 ounce (by weight) Lavender Essential Oil
9 pints Strong Alcohol
Mix and mix, and agitate thoroughly together, and then add successively:
1 ounce & 144 minums Neroli Essential Oil (Petits Grains)
1 ounce & 144 minums Lemon Essential Oil
2 ounces & 288 minums Sweet Orange Essential Oil (Aurantii Dulcis)
2 ounces & 288 minums Lime Essential Oil (Oil of Limettae)
2 ounces & 288 minums Bergamot Essential Oil
Tincture of Geranii Rose Flowers (Flowers of Rose Geranium) - A sufficient quantity to impart the desired fragrance.
Macerate for several weeks, and fill into flasks.
KENGS'S COLOGNE #2 (ADAPTED)
7.4 ml Rosemary Essential Oil
7.4 ml Lemon Essential Oil
3.7 ml Lavender Essential Oil
3.7 ml Bergamot Essential Oil
8 drops Cinnamon Essential Oil
8 drops Clove Essential Oil
8 drops Rose Essential Oil
1/4 cup 70% Ethyl Alcohol (Everclear diluted to 70%)
Mix together in a glass bottle and allow to steep for a few days. Shake well before using. Adapted from King's American Dispensatory
VERBENA OIL FORMULA
1/2 Pint Cologne Alcohol
1 drachm Otto or Verbena Oil
20 drops Lavender Esseintal Oil
20 drops Bergamot Essential Oil
Mix all together.
WHITE ROSE FORMULA
15 drops Rose Essential Oil
10 drops Rose Geranium Essential Oil
2 drops Patchouli Essential Oil
2 ounces Ambrette Tincture
4 ounces Orris Tincture
12 ounces Deodorized Alcohol
1 pint Rosewater
Dissolve the oils in the deodorized alcohol, add the tinctures, shake well then slowly add the rosewater and filter through filtering paper. If desired, a slight tinge of color may be given by adding a very small amount of Aniline.
MARY STEWART FORMULA
15 drops Rose Essential Oil
5 drops Sandalwood Essential Oil
1/2 drachm Bergamot Essential Oil
4 ounces Orris Root Tincture
1 ounce Civet Tincture
1 ounce Vanilla Tincture
3 ounces Deodorized Alcohol
7 ounces Rosewater 1/2 ounce Carbonate of Magnesia
Mix the oils and tinctures with 1/2 ounce of the deodorized alcohol, place the Magnesia in a mortar or some convenient vessel, pour on the solution of oils and alcohol and mix thoroughly. Mix the remaining 1.5 ounces of alcohol and the rosewater, add all together and filter through filtering paper.
JOCKEY CLUB FORMULA
6 drachms Bergamot Essential Oil
15 drops Lavender Essential Oil
8 drops Rose Essential Oil
4 ounces Orris Root Tincture
1 1/2 ounce Vanilla Tincture
4 ounces Cologne Spirits (Alcohol)
7 ounces Rosewater
Mix as above.
TOILET SOAP
For toilet soap, dissolve one can of lye in one quart of water. Try out five pounds of mutton tallow until perfectly pure. Have the grease as cool as it can be without congealing; then pour it, a few drops at a time, into the dissolved lye, beating constantly. Stir into the mixture:
4 ounces Glycerine
1/2 ounce Bergamot Essential Oil or Lavender Essential Oil, as preferred. Geranium Essential Oil also gives a pleasant perfume.
When all the ingredients are blended, beat in two tablespoonfuls each of powdered borax and ammonia. Whip hard. Line a pan with paper and pour the soap into it.
SOAP CREAM
Soap cream Dissolve a cake of castile soap in one quart of boiling water; simmer till like thick cream. Remove from the fire, and when almost cool, beat into this one half ounce of benzoin, a few drops at a time. This cleanses as well as whitens the skin.
SUNBURN REMEDY
Sunburn Shake well in a bottle one ounce of olive oil, one ounce of water or rosewater, one teaspoon of cooking-soda, and a tiny bit of soap. (The latter may be omitted.) This can be used when the skin is stiff, red, and sore.
In Spanish tropical countries the ladies thickly powder the face to prevent sunburn, which in acute cases is always painful.
PERSPIRATION REMEDY
Bathe with Ivory, or any good soap; rub on a little alcohol, and powder with a mixture of cooking-soda and talcum powder.
SOAP JELLY FOR A SHAMPOO
Make a jelly by dissolving a large cake of green castile soap, or any pure soap, in a quart of boiling water. This will keep, and can be used from time to time. First wet the hair with warm water, then take two tablespoonfuls of the jelly (a very little soda if desired) and rub thoroughly into the hair and well into the scalp. Rinse several times, making the water colder each time. Dry the hair in the sunlight and open air if not too cold.
SHAMPOO FOR WHITE HAIR
The best shampoo is 4 ounces of white castile soap, dissolved in one pint of boiling hot water. Cool and keep in glass. When ready to use, beat the white of an egg into as much soap as you need to use at one time. Rub into the scalp well before using any water, rinse in several waters and to the last water add a drop or two of bluing. Borax, soda, or ammonia should never be used on white hair, as it will give a most undesirable yellow tinge.
FRAGRANCE NOTES
The fragrance blends made by the preceding method(s) and using only commercially available essential (and fragrance) oils will not yield a product equivalent to that of commercial perfumes, colognes, etc. commercial perfumers use concentrated essences and incorporate fixing agents in their fragrances making them smell stronger and last longer. In addition, their arsenal of ingredients includes aldehydes and other aroma chemicals that do not exist in nature, especially for those fragrances in the ozone-oceanic and modern categories. Some fragrances in these categories are made wholly from aldehydes.
COLOGNE VS EAU DE COLOGNE
"Eau de Cologne" is the name of a scent; the original was created in cologne, germany. this is not to be confused with "cologne", which is the level of concentration or strength of a fragrance (3% to 5%).
Caution: Some of the oils used are not recommended for application to the skin. Please consult an aromatherapy guide to determine the safety of the oils in the recipes and for instructions on testing for sensitivites.
For more personal care recipes, return to index:
MoonDragon's Health Therapy: Herbal Personal Care Index
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