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MoonDragon's Medieval Costumes
Costume Closures
by Magistra Rosemounde of Mercia

neckline vent SLITS: These are often called vents. Slits are found at necklines, sides at the hem, and underarms to allow ease of movement, ingress and egress. A broach (or hook) is commonly used at neckline slits.


LACINGS: These are often combined with slits and are used frequently at necklines, sides of garments, up the back or front of gowns, on pants fronts, and on boots. Laces can be drawn through eyelets or loops, or wrapped around lacing hooks (available at fabric stores).


Neckline Vent with Lacing Through Eyelets


Side Vent with Lacing Through Loops


Gown Back with Lacing Around Lacing Hooks

Eyelets - Hand bound or embroidered eyelets are lovely but time consuming. Metal eyelets can be put in with a special pliers tool quickly, but are less authentic, especially in early garments. Also special care should be taken to avoid having the material ravel away from the eyelet. Some sewing machines make eyelets (tiny buttonhole setting that will not ravel).


TIES: Ties can be used anywhere. In the earlier periods they were combined with slits. Later they were used as much for decoration as function. Ties were almost always what was used for garters.


Neckline Vent with ties


Italian sleeve c. 1490


DRAWSTRING: These are used in waistbands, necklines and cuffs. A drawstring affect can be achieved with elastic, which allows easier ingress and egress to the garment, but does not always look quite the same. A good "chest" version with elastic can be achieved by sewing a drawstring to each end of an appropriate length of elastic (1). Then insert the elastic into your casing with the drawstring pieces coming out the ends. Stitch the elastic at the ends (2). The drawstrings can then be tied. Since the elastic with stretch, there will be no need to ever tie or untie the strings when putting on or taking off the garment (3).


hook tape sewn to look like topstitched seam HOOKS: Hooks can be used singly at a neckline, on cuffs or shoes. In groups they can be used for back closures, pants fronts, etc. Grouped hooks can be bought in tape form (called hook tape) at fabric stores. Be sure when sewing on hook tape to lap the edges of the fabric over it to cover evenly from both sides. It should look like a seam when finished.


BUTTONS: These are used like hooks, but are more versatile as they are decorative as well as being functional. They were used in the later periods as pure decoration as on slashes in doublets, etc.

cotehardie with rows of buttons down front and sleeves Buttonholes - Bound buttonholes are most authentic, but a bit more difficult. Fabric stores sell a bound buttonhole maker with instructions that works on any machine and eliminates a lot of the hassle. Machine buttonholes do not look too bad, and they do not show when covered by the button.

Button loops - Hand crocheted loops are great of course and terribly authentic. However, elastic loops by the yard (look in the bridal section of cloth shops) look pretty good, open and close easily and are eminently more practical for long runs of buttons.

knotted fabric button Buttons - Early ones were horn, shell, bone, wood, gold, silver, bronze, and copper. Later, buttons of polished gemstones, ivory, pearls, brass and knotted fabric were added to the list. Covered buttons as they now exist were probably not known. Buttons could be one holed (like beads), two, three, or four holed, or shank. Shank came to be the most popular from about 1300 on.


kilt buckle with leather straps BUCKLES: Buckles were most likely developed from the fibule type broach. They were used during the medieval periods on bolts, baldrics, shoes, and kilts. They were very common on armour. Generally made of metal, they could be anywhere from quite simple to very ornate.


SNAPS: It is debatable whether or not snaps are in period. A crude kind of snap was probably used during the cavalier period, but it is not likely that it looked anything like the ones we have today. However, if well disguised, snaps may be a convenient closure for you. They can be especially handy for faking buttons. Snaps come in card form like hooks, available at fabric stores, or singly.

button backed with snaps

Velcro - An alternative to snaps is Velcro. It is easy to use and very easy to open and shut, so easy in fact that it should not be used on high stress points. It is also somewhat expensive.


Links To Other Costuming Resources

SCA Clothing & Costume Links

www.maering.co.uk

RedDawn's Pages for Faire Costumes

The Garb Bag: Fantasy Costuming Links

Making A Shield

The Perfect Armor Improved: Water Hardened Leather

Apprentice Armorer's Illustrated Handbook

Care & Cleaning of ChainMaille

Production Mail Techniques

How To Make A Coif

Footwear of the Middle Ages

Making Shoes

Chaperon's and How To Make Them

Costuming 101: The Cowl

Real Whips: How To Make Your Own Whip

Some Clothing of the Middle Ages

Medieval Clothing

Lothene: Costumes of Medieval Times

Costumes.org: Medieval Costume Links

Costume Page: Medieval History

StitchWitch Medieval Links

Sunara Clothing & Accessories Goodies Page


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